SP3 weekly review 2

This stage of SP3 I put together three different visual boards that act as sources of inspiration for development but also are useful for showing whole elements of the project in a more concise way, using images that have been carefully selected. The first was the brand board for the retailer that I chose to design for, Zara. I took 6 or 7 images from a large selection that i’d found for the brand board and chose ones that I felt conveyed the overall image of Zara and the style of garments that it’s generally known for. I think I could have included more than one technical flat drawing here but the overall page is effective. Screen Shot 2017-03-13 at 15.24.43

I then made use of Photoshop again in creating a trend board for the Plush Luxe trend from WGSN. In the same way I was selective about the images and layout of the above brand board, I included a variety of photographs to represent how I interpreted the trend. The report on WGSN focused on the use of luxurious velvets and silk, as well as furniture-esque fringing and deep colour palettes. I was sure to include these elements, as well as my own additions like the use of fur texture, for example.

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The third and final of these boards is a customer profile. Mainly based on the market research I had carried out for Zara I collected a range of images that I feel represent the customer’s lifestyle. I made sure to find images that seemed more ‘personal’ than some I had used in other areas of research, so Instagram was a good source for this. Using Photoshop to put these images together on a A3, I then included some small pieces of text that described details like the age range, beliefs, interests and personal style of the customer which makes the profile more specific and ‘real’.

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The customer profile is particularly useful in designing as it gives you some form of ‘real’ focus for garment designs, such as the small pieces of text on the board that can influence design features, price points, fabric choice, decorative features, etc.

Overall, I think that the three boards are all effective and communicate the ideas behind them effectively. I am pleased with the aesthetic quality of each of them but also the fact that they are useful representations of the chosen brand, trend and customer.

 

SP3 weekly review 1

Our final specialist project is titled ‘Trend’. It “combines fashion marketing aspects with trend prediction to ultimately design a capsule collection for a high street brand”. As well as fashion forecasting and trend prediction being an integral part of this Trend project, market research is vital and is used as the starting point. We were given a list of nine high street brands to research, by combining online information and images with our own real-life experiences of each store, commenting on things like visual merchandising, organisation, staff, advertising and product quality. This week I carried out most of this research and the write-up for it can be found here. The research was mounted in my sketchbook alongside online imagery relating to the brand identity of each store and some flats/sketches representing the kind of garments each is known for.

After completing this research we had to select one of these brands to design our capsule collection for. I was drawn to both All Saints and Zara because I felt that both of their brand identities and product ranges would be suited to my overall style of designing and initial ideas I already had. In the end I went with Zara, mainly because the future trend from WGSN Dark Wonder that I had chosen (‘Plush Luxe’) was reminiscent of many of Zara’s past collections. Screen Shot 2017-03-13 at 11.17.38

Of the nine trends within Dark Wonder, I feel that this one is most appropriate to my chosen brand and offers a lot of inspiration and potential for a six-outfit collection. After choosing my brand and trend I can now move into research that combines the two, looking at recurring themes, design features, fabrics, embellishments, etc.

 

SP2 weekly review 3

After using a lot of last week to create different fabric samples, week three started with more in-depth development of the six-piece collection. After analysing the key details of my three garments I created a number of development pages that explored how they could be combined to create outfits that reflected Traditions Reformed and made use of all of the design details of this trend that were my reasons for choosing it in the first place.

Production of my final garment was due to begin this week but due to a number of different restrictions that hasn’t been able to happen. However, because of this I have decided to use my development drawings and experimentation as further design ‘evolution’ which will hopefully mean my final piece is better thought-out and therefore to a higher standard than it would have otherwise been.

In terms of coming up with the final collection, I have focused a lot on the fit-and-flare feature of the trend because of the interesting and feminine silhouette it can create. I also think it can work well with the kinds of simple, plain fabrics that my three garments are created from, as they are all either chiffon or thin cotton. Some of the sketches have some obvious links to the trend such as Mandarin collars, whilst other details are more subtle or have been taken directly from similar garments found in my trend research.

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final line up – before adding colour & more defined lines

SP2 weekly review 2

Week two of Barnardo’s has been focused on creating different samples that we can include in our research but also go on to use in our final makes to add interest and more variety. I have a selection of samples in knit, quilting and hand and machine embroidery throughout my research pages, which I have tried to keep with the theme from my chosen trend by choosing appropriate neutral and earthy colours for wool/yarn and embroidery thread, for example. I chose to create some samples using the floral motif from my first research which combined quilting with free machine embroidery to give an image that added raised texture to the surface of the fabric.

This week I also went out and sourced three garments from Oxfam that are to be deconstructed and remodelled into my final garment design. After my initial research I was able to go to charity shops with a list of key design features, fabrics, detailing and colours that I needed to look for in order to find pieces that would make the most effective and accurate final piece for the trend. I am happy with the garments that I picked out as I feel they have a range of design features, textures and fit but can work well together to create a garment for Traditions Reformed.

I have created a page for each garment in my sketchbook which each shows a fashion sketch and then a hand-drawn technical flat for each piece. I have also added some brief annotation to each page describing the fabrics, fit and decorative features of each. A chiffon shirt dress with belt and paisley/baroque print, a white chiffon kimono shawl with eyelash lace trim, and a white cotton strapless dress with floral lace trim and peplum-style overhang bodice.

This week I also began planning the development of these garments three-dimensionally and how I will change them into a final design. These pages are shown after some responses to some of my own photographs from a V&A exhibition, with squares of acetate over photographs of the pieces on the mannequin (moulage) detailing how I might alter the dresses and kimono, taking into account the design features and style identified in research. A notable part of this development is the potential use of Chinese lettering, which I would probably create using free machine embroidery. I’d thought about using the language as a motif not only because it’s an unusual feature that creates interest but also because it creates a link between the Asia Pacific element of the trend that I described. I decided to simply translate the phrase ‘Traditions Reformed’ to keep the text relevant, but may change this to something more meaningful at a later date if I go on to use the technique. chinese

SP2 weekly review 1

Our second specialism project is a ‘deconstruct-reconstruct’ project and is entitled Barnardo’s. The brief describes this project as being about developing an understanding of the concepts in construction, detail, fabric selection and colour, whilst designing for a current trend.

This week I started by looking into all of the trends under the Slow Futures section on WGSN. Again, like the previous project I have chosen to design womenswear. These were all forecast for ss18 and included Raw Minimalism, Sculpted Volume and Retro Futuristic, amongst others. After considering the aesthetics, colour palettes, materials and imagery within each trend carefully I decided to go ahead with Traditions Reformed, a trend based upon historical styling from Asia Pacific, incorporating exaggerated sleeves, neutral tones and a fit-and-flare silhouette. Out of all of the trends under Slow Futures this one stood out to me because of the elegant but unusual silhouettes, as well as the neutral colour palette that should be easy enough to replicate when sourcing second-hand garments.

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After finalising the trend I was going to choose I moved on to collating secondary research into a number of areas that I felt linked in with Traditions Reformed. I looked into the brand mentioned in the WGSN report, Ms Min, as a way of including some more directed research into a specific area. In my sketchbook I have added five images from their ss18 collection that I found to be the most inspiring and include design features that I might like to replicate.

Prior to this, I have put together five pages of research into Traditions Reformed that include mostly secondary but also some primary research. I have also tried to use a mixture of non-fashion, catwalk and street style images to hopefully give me a broader view of the trend/concept when it comes to designing. In responding to these images I have used acetate in combination with markers and silk paint, as well as using small fabric and trim samples for variation. Unlike the previous project I also carried out some experimentation using the scanner/photocopier as a means of photography to see what effects could be created. I used a length of lace trim that was similar to some of the intricate lace detailing on garments I had found in my trend research, as well as dried flower petals behind a hibiscus flower motif that I had taken from a tiny fabric sample and linked to Traditions Reformed, which is a design feature that I aim to use further. To supplement this trend research I hope to create a number of fabric samples next week using techniques including quilting, embroidery and knit.

SP1 weekly review 3

Going into the third week of the Fashion Drawing project I began to put onto paper some of the rough design ideas and key features i’d been thinking about during the two previous weeks. Because of the nature of ‘fluid’, designs were obviously going to make use of drape and light, sheer, reflective fabrics. My initial prototype illustrations show quite a lot of variety in terms of construction, but I definitley think there might have been room for more experimentation in these designs as some of them appear too ‘safe’, particularly when they are only represented in a black-and white sketch with no further design information.

After these 10 first designs I moved onto developing some of the ones I thought had the most impact and would be able to be taken further to create effective final designs. I had already considered the season to design for and chosen ss(18) because of the nature of the light, airy materials and relaxed construction of the designs which are much better suited to a warmer climate. However, at this stage I also began thinking more about colour palettes, silhouettes and specific details within the garments. I also have a few stray sketches alongside that show some model pose experimentation and styling in an attempt to finalise a model drawing style that I could use throughout.

SP1 weekly review 2

Week two of the Fashion Drawing project began with a continuation of my concept research. After the ‘fluid’ imagery and my responses to it I moved into using digital tools to create a number of mood boards and a digital concept board. Using Polyvore I created five simple mood boards showing pieces that to me represented the chosen concept. These simple boards didn’t take up a lot of time but they were very helpful in making the idea of a ‘fluid’ garment more clear and realistic, as opposed to the quite vague and artistic imagery I had been using so far.

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Similarly, I then went on to create a digital concept board on Photoshop, which used some of the imagery I selected last week in my initial research. Whilst i’m pleased with the outcome of this as it shows the idea of ‘fluidity’, I feel that I rushed this particular part of the project and the board could have been a lot more effective if i’d taken more time over its composition and the imagery I selected for it. digital-concept-board

Towards the end of this week I moved into the final parts of my concept research and began thinking about some design development and key features I might like to include in my designs. Using WGSN I was able to find a key trends report from SS16 that talked about the ‘Fluid Volume’ trend – ideal for this project. The report talked about “materials that fall between solid and liquid form”, “contrasts of fluid drape and solid materiality at Rick Owens and A F Vandevorst”, and garments that “ebb and flow” around the body in silks and chiffons. This information was very useful in giving me more direction and specific ideas about fabrics and construction for ‘fluid’ garments. I also used the WGSN library of technical flats to inspire shape and look at how drape was used on obvious pieces like dresses but also coats, jackets and trousers. By this point I was also very set on creating womenswear as the whole idea of light, flowing, liquid-like pieces is very suited to that market. This reserach section of my sketchbook ends with a selection of different primary photographs that I took based around the concept. They show a body of water, both still and in motion, which is a clear link to ‘fluid’, but also the use of light on fabric, as well as some sculptural pieces from the Shipley Gallery.